There was a fidelity there for successful silhouettes which have Simone’s DNA written all over them such as the dresses with exaggerated side paneling. Concepts for accessories were reprised but developed in new, innovative formats and fabrications.
Simone’s tulle tailoring was faultless. She excels at originality and introduced us to old school, Hong Kong oilcloth for floral brogues to the thoroughly wearable, stunning white wallpaper brocade dresses with scalloped edge, a detail she also introduced to her gloves. | via Style
Had Erdem been leafing through the pages of Joseph Conrad’s A Heart of Darkness? The show set was a huge, imposing forest and underneath the verdant vines Erdem proved that when it comes to creating clothes that women long to wear, he’s anything but green.
Erdem has been riffing on the sweet spot between beauty and darkness for a few seasons now and for spring / summer 15 he found the balance. Floor length gowns were the form here, tiered, sheer, richly embroidered with botanics, with just a smattering of separates. A tweed sleeveless top was best, styled in a contemporary way with a delicate bag shaped like a book slung across the body. The amount of embroidery was vast and any hint of OTT pomp was diluted with boyish flat shoes. The leaf and branch stitch work sat against deco style windows stitched on to dresses, that and the high Victorian collars brought a classic, historic appeal to a collection that felt very right for now. | via Vogue
Berardi’s Spring Summer woman is as delicately dressed as she is fierce. Swathed in chiffon one minute and suited in sharp bonded satin flares the next, she’s armed for garden parties and city-slicking alike. From voluminous coral to emrbroidered silk skirts that flow like water, there was a lot to love. | via Style
There’s often a film-noir quality to Marios Schwab’s clothes. His spring show opened with a beige trench coat — spliced into a cropped jacket and matching skirt — and concluded with finale columns that married lengths of silk crepe and chiffon with glossy straps resembling electrical tape.
He’s inventive, splicing sheer panels into the shoulders of cotton shirtdresses or the bodices of little black dresses. The collection skewed dressy, though in a moody vein heightened by gritty prints resembling crumpled paper or vintage movie posters.
Scarf-point silk dresses and bi-level skirts offered flashes of leg, as did unfortunate jersey pants slashed open on the inseams. | via Style.and WWD